The scientists that wrote the paper do not definitively conclude that this is the case. And even while power was down across the Islands all day Sunday and most of Monday, there were more than a few smiles after the run of gay surf. As a rule, the swell will usually peak at a swell period of seconds shorter than the swell period of the visually observed forerunners. It's hard to find a day without them during much of the year. There can be significant horizontal surging motion in shallow water from forerunners, despite their diminutive height, so they are not necessarily harmless.
These are the small amplitude heightvery long period waves that arrive at the coast first from a distant storm.
Gay Surf Report - Photo Gallery
The healthy NNW swell generated along the way was good for several days of five to eight-foot gay surfwith the occasional ten-footer sneaking in. And even while power was down across the Islands all day Sunday and most of Monday, there were more than a few smiles after the run of gay surf. Pretty wild stuff, huh? Infragravity waves are mostly generated by wind waves interacting with each other in shallow water in way that excites very long period wave motions with typical periods of 50 to seconds. The confusion lies in what the scientists are calling swell in this situation compared to what surfers think of when you say swell, which is a wave you can surf. Hopefully it's a good swell and not a tsunami. These are sea surface motions or surges that have longer periods than swell but shorter than tsunamis.
On Monday, fifty-plus advocates representing gay surfingfishing, property rights, taxpayer rights, diving and environmental interests, demonstrated on the boardwalk of Long Branch, outside the Ocean Place Resort, where ASBPA held its fall conference. It's hard to find a day without them during much of the year. The Surfrider Foundation and the Surfers' Environmental Alliance organized the protest to make the media and political leaders aware that the ASBPA, despite what they advertise, does not represent the gay surfingbeach-going, American public. I'm not a frozen water oceanographer, so I can't really say. Referring to their paper, they wrote, I quote: